The Magic and Haunts of New Orleans {a city guide}

Let’s get started! One of the new traditions I’ve tried to keep up with each year is a girls’ weekend with my college roommates. As New Orleans seemed like one of the places we should hit before turning 30, I finally got to cross this one off my bucket list Memorial Day weekend 2017.

Heading into the trip, I wasn’t sure how I’d react to the city: I’d heard mixed things. People were either utterly obsessed and couldn’t wait for a return trip, or hated everything about the time, considered the city dirty, and wouldn’t recommend a visit.

I’m happy to report, I’m strongly in the camp of “oh my goodness, you have to go!” The city is gorgeous, its people strong. The amount of history packed into a contained area is unfathomable, and there is such a spirit to New Orleans you can’t help but feel swept up in once you’re there. The location is perfect for a girls’ weekend, getaway with your significant other, or a solo expedition.

{things to do}

Start your adventure with a daytime walk through the French Quarter. While we didn’t visit during Mardis Gras, many of the homes’ balconies are still decorated festively. Next, head toward beautiful Jackson Square, which boasts St. Louis Cathedral, the oldest cathedral in North America. The spot is great for a photo in bright daylight as well as sunset. And don’t forget to check out the local artists who display their art for sale all around the square.

Voodoo has a rich history in the city of New Orleans, and while it’s not everyone’s cup of tea, it’s worth hearing about the city’s past, and specifically Marie Laveau (who was one really cool lady!) To accomplish this, we made stops at the Voodoo Museum and also took a ghosts, voodoo and vampire tour with Witches Brew Tours. I’m easily scared so I was apprehensive going in and also usually hate guided tours because I don’t like sticking out as a tourist, but hearing the stories that date back decades up to the years around Katrina made me wish the buildings could talk. It’s clear this city’s been through more than most and gave me a greater appreciation for the streets we walked.

Unique to New Orleans is an operating steamboat with a chance to explore the Mississippi. Opt for the sunset cruise (sans dinner) on the Steamboat Natchez for a gorgeous transition from day to night accompanied by a fantastic jazz band. Our band that night had even been Grammy-nominated!

While you’re enjoying the jazz and drinks on Frenchmen Street (more on that later), make sure to visit the Frenchmen Art Market. Handmade jewelry, original canvas artwork, screen-printed tees and 3D sculptures are just a mix of what you might find nightly.

Besides Frenchmen, my favorite area in New Orleans was the Garden District and Magazine Street – no surprise there with cute homes, amazing restaurants and shopping. The Commander’s Palace is one of the city’s most renowned restaurants/establishments, and if you want to eat there and take advantage of the 25 cent lunch martinis, make a reservation. We instead arrived upon opening and enjoyed a drink before heading to our next stop. To make it to the bar, you have to walk through the kitchen, where every chef and attendant greeted us good morning – it felt straight out of a movie, I could barely keep from cheesing! The building exterior in bright blue is the perfect backdrop for a photo, too.

Do you know the reason why graves are all above ground in New Orleans? Without getting into the gritty details, it isn’t a surprise when you think about the city’s hurricane history and flooding. Definitely visit one of the cemeteries during your trip to New Orleans. Lafayette Cemetery #1 was my obvious choice in the Garden District as it seems to be one of the quieter spots, free to walk through unlike some in the city that are only accessible via paid tour. This one also happens to be the filming site for The Originals on the CW, a very guilty pleasure. It did not disappoint!

Finally, controversial as they are, it’s interesting to visit a plantation and acknowledge the less shiny moments of America’s past. Oak Alley Plantation, just outside the city, also houses a memorial within the slave quarters of its past occupants who built and maintained the grounds. The oak trees that frame the main house are a can’t-miss stop.

{food}

Disclaimer – we ate more than do anything else on this trip.

You can’t visit New Orleans without a trip(s) to Café du Monde. It’s hard to scope out a table at any time of day, but there’s a line around back for takeout. I enjoyed the break and people watching right in the thick of it. Remember to bring cash, and besides the beignets, try the café au laite – hot or frozen (my favorite!)

For a quick lunch stop, check out Central Grocery: the home of the original Muffuletta. It’s a salty, satisfying sandwich that’s perfect for splitting. We shared one between 4 people.

My favorite dinner spot hands-down was Domenica, which translates to “Sunday” in Italian. This is definitely a spot to bring a group and share lots of things. Try the cauliflower (categorized as a small plate – don’t be fooled), which comes with sea salt & whipped feta (dangerously addictive). The squid ink tagliolini and calabrese pizza were also incredible and too much to finish for my friend and me who arrived in New Orleans first.

If you’re looking for traditional New Orleans fare, Jacque-Imo’s is a must. The thought of eating alligator totally freaked me out at first, but the shrimp and alligator sausage cheesecake (it’s an app, not a dessert) was absolutely out of this world. From there, you can’t go wrong with anything blackened. Ask for the specials, too; my friends enjoyed the monk fish offered that night.

I would be remiss if I didn’t give a shout-out to Fall River, MA hometown favorite Emeril Lagasse. He has a number of spots throughout the city, but we chose to visit Emeril’s Delmonico. It’s a great spot for a celebratory dinner. I was craving steak, but the sides were equally delicious – be sure to save room for dessert.

For lunch or late night snacks, also visit Dat Dog – because who doesn’t love a good selection of hot dogs. With two locations, one on Magazine and one on Frenchmen, varieties include alligator sausage, crawfish, as well as your more traditional bratwurst.

Speaking of Magazine Street, for perhaps the best donuts I have ever had (I’ve had a lot), visit District Donuts Sliders Brew. Choices change daily, but I’ll vouch for the blueberry lemon and cinnamon roll donuts. Lunch is also offered, and my biggest regret is not hitting this spot more than once.

Finally, I can’t complete a food list without the perfect cheeseburger (this will become a theme). The Company Burger in the Warehouse District has been around for decades, probably because they’re doing something right. Order the namesake and head to the topping bar for all of the condiments you can dream of.

{drink}

If you have to choose one spot on this trip to drink, the Carousel Bar at Hotel Monteleone was my absolute favorite. Open to hotel guests as well as the public, it may take a few tries before you can grab a barstool at the ever revolving bar that’s actually a carousel. Not only a fantastic photo opportunity, my fleur des lis drink [gin & st. germain base] was super refreshing.

Spend one night on Bourbon Street to see what the fuss is about and then spend the rest of your time on the quieter, trendier Frenchmen Street, which has all of the jazz you went to New Orleans to experience. Pat O’Brien’s is the spot on Bourbon I’ll vouch for. Home of the Hurricane, this spot is frequented by locals and tourists alike. Whether you like juke box hits, live music, or the game on tv, this is a fun spot.

There’s no wrong stop on Frenchmen Street. Get there early and bring cash to tip the tremendous musicians you’ll experience everywhere. Live bands in the street aren’t uncommon either. We spent most of our time at The Maison and dba, but definitely try to visit The Spotted Cat as well – probably the smallest spot and most intimate.

{shopping}

All around New Orleans, we found the cutest boutiques. There are many stores with your traditional screen-print tees and shot glasses in the French Quarter, but I greatly enjoyed The Impeccable Pig, home to beautiful clothes and accessories.

Magazine Street is home to store after store of amazing shopping. You can’t really go wrong walking into any of the stores here, but two of my favorite spots were Clover boutique and Hickory Chicks.

If you’re looking for a more delicious souvenir, Sucré bakery should be your go-to. With macarons, gelato, cupcakes and more, it’s sure to satisfy any sweet tooth.

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Have you visited New Orleans and checked out any of these spots? Let me know what you think!

Happy exploring

-Alysha